Day 7, in which we watched a man pull a rabbit out of a tree trunk.

by lara on October 29, 2009

To day it was south and a little west of town to the Zaachila valley. Traffic has been terrible this week so our guide Nico took us down a super-secret short-cut. Like going down the rabbit hole.

tunnel of reeds on a dirt road

tunnel of reeds on a dirt road

Speaking of rabbits. Our first stop was the wood carving village of Arrozola. Arsenio Moreles took a machete to a block of wood and created one of his signature long eared rabbits.

carving a rabbit

carving a rabbit

This is the view of the back yard (and studio) of one of the other carvers. I have really bad studio envy.

valley view from arrozola

valley view from arrozola

I haven’t been to Arrozola in about 5 years. The town looks much the same but the quality and variety of work being offered has gone way up. This peacock is one example.

peacock

peacock

All the way down this main street you can walk into the front room of any house and find carvings for sale.

looking down the main street in arrozola

looking down the main street in arrozola

At one house where I bought a lot of little things like earrings and hair sticks, this little parrot followed us around while we shopped. If you look closely you can see that he follows the painters around too. That’s a lovely shade of blue on his tail.

parrot that followed us around

parrot that followed us around

After Arrozola we went to Cuilapam de Guerroro. Their market day is Thursday. We walked through the animal market. They don’t get a lot of gringo tourists walking through the animal market.

Most land in this valley is worked with oxen.

field oxen

field oxen

Goats, with little bundles of alfalfa tied to the panels.

goats in pens

goats in pens

All of the pigs are this pale pink pricked ear type.

a litter of pigs

a litter of pigs

Turkey is native to Mexico and the favored meat for fiestas. All of these will end up under a mole this weekend.

turkeys for dinner

turkeys for dinner

This is looking over the town from the site of the large – abandoned Dominican church.

down the hill into the village

down the hill into the village

The Dominican church in Cuilapam was one of several being built in the Oaxaca area in the middle of the 16th century. There were more churches being built than there was money to build with. This one was abandoned in favor of the cathedral in Oaxaca city.

unfinished church

unfinished church

The chapel as been partially restored. It never had a roof. The indigenous people could not fathom the idea that you would go -inside- to pray to your god. The Dominicans met them half way. In a church but without a roof.

outdoor chapel

outdoor chapel

Today’s arty shot is of the tower of the chapel and the clear blue sky.

tower on the domincan church

tower on the domincan church

No one can say how many of the Zapotec Indians were baptized in this font. Something between thousands and hundreds of thousands. The angels faces were clearly carved by locals rather than Europeans.

baptismal font

baptismal font

One last look at the valley before heading back into town for lunch.

zaachila valley

zaachila valley

Lunch at La Biznaga (barrel cactus). Most places have a fixed price lunch special called the Comida Corrida. Running lunch. Today it was porkchops and apple sauce.

porkchops and apple sauce

porkchops and apple sauce

La Biznaga has one of the great bars in Oaxaca. There are so many votaries in this city. It’s nice to have one devoted to the agave plant.

the bar at la biznaga

the bar at la biznaga

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